Morocco’s former capital and its oldest imperial settlement, Fez is undergoing a bit of a shake up. Home to the world’s oldest university, authentic souk shopping and heaps of history, it’s always been a must-visit destination. But something’s stirring in the winding medina backstreets. A new wave of cosmopolitan hotels, a vibrant food scene and an ambitious city-wide restoration programme (including the treasure-packed Qarawiyyin Library, thought to be the world’s oldest) are putting an extra shine on Fez’s dazzlingly decorative architecture, colourful street life and shady courtyard gardens. Here are five more reasons why Fez is one rocking kasbah…
1. Its medina is the largest in the world. That’s a lot of shopping
Shop your way around the medina’s labyrinthine alleys
Dating from the 8th century, the Medina of Fez is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and now’s the best time to see it – many of its ancient buildings and monuments have recently been subtly scrubbed up to their former glory. Pick up lanterns, leather goods, pottery and carpets, or search for vintage treasures at second-hand clothing souk El Merktane in the El Achabine quarter. Wear comfy shoes, as no cars can venture into the medina’s twisty, narrow alleys. And take an empty-ish suitcase; as we said, there’s a lot of shopping.
2. It’s Morocco’s cultural and spiritual heart
Prepare for tile envy at the ornately decorated Madrasa Al-Attarine
‘The Athens of Africa’ was the capital of Morocco until 1912, and it’s still considered its cultural centre. Don’t leave without visiting the magnificent Madrasa Al-Attarine, former student lodgings and part of Al-Karaouine, the oldest university in the world. Look out for the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, which draws music groups and artists from around the world to play in venues grand and intimate throughout the city. Immerse yourself in local crafts and culture at the Batha ethnological gardens, a cornucopia of traditional Berber artefacts, including jewellery and pottery, housed in an ornate palace.
3. It’s an authentic street food (and restaurant) treasure trove
Taste Fez’s new culinary scene at foodie favourite Nur
Haggling is hungry work. Tuck into kefta (tender, charcoal-grilled skewers), harcha (bread made from semolina), maakouda (mashed potato fritters), bessara (fava bean soup), steamed sheep’s head or snail soup. And do it like a local: snack your way around the medina between 6pm and 8pm, then have dinner at 10pm. One of the movers and shakers of the Fez restaurant scene is Nur (above), run by Noma and El Bulli alumnus Najat Kaanache – look out for her newest opening, Nachō Mama, the medina’s first Mexican takeaway. Head to buzzy Cafe Clock to try one of its legendary camel burgers, or for traditional tagines and live music in a candlelit courtyard, dine at La Maison Bleue at Riad Maison Bleue.
4. Its must-see attraction is a thousand years of living history
Watch artisans at work at the Chouara tanneries
If visiting a tannery hasn’t been on your travel to-do list until now, the Chouara tanneries are the game-changer. Dating back to the Middle Ages, its patchwork vats of spice-coloured dyes make for a striking sight. And a striking smell – pigeon poop and cow urine are involved in the tanning process. Retreat to the Jardin Jnan Sbil, a tranquil public garden that was once part of the Royal Palace and is resplendent with tiled fountains, palms and flower beds. When you’re ready to chill, scrub up at the Palais Faraj’s hammam spa.
5. You can stay in a historic riad, whatever your budget
Budget
Riad Dar Arsama
Located in the heart of the medina, newly opened Riad Dar Arsama is a bijou guest house lovingly restored by its owners, Spanish artist Violeta Caldrés and her Fez-born husband Adil. After a day exploring the souks, retreat to a shady spot in the courtyard gardens for a refreshing glass of Moroccan mint tea.
Mid-range
Riad Idrissy
The four-roomed Riad Idrissy is housed in a 400-year-old building, but has all the modern comforts you’d expect from a boutique hotel. Rooms are adorned with quirky antique furniture, curios and objets d’art, all set against a backdrop of fabulous zellij tiles and stucco work.
Luxe
Riad Fes
If you’re indulging, check in to Riad Fes, a temple of pampering and relaxation in the medina. Cool off in the open-air pool, sip a sundowner on the roof terrace and experience the spa’s hammam ritual.